Once I had the back on the needles, I had one more decision to make. The waist was shaped, but I did not know how. I decided to use k1, p1 rib on the smaller needles. This would be covered by the belt, so the look didn’t matter too much, but it gave the right shaping over the hips and in at the waist. The break in the pattern also allowed for easy decreasing from the peplum to the body.
After that, the back was plain sailing. The photo showed the jacket to be wide across the shoulders, with a set in sleeve, so the number of decreases at the armhole was fairly small and the rest of the back straight to the shoulders.
I had already worked out most of the maths for the fronts. Only the pockets needed placing. The photo shows they are placed very low down, and well towards the side seams.
Other than that, I had to decide whether to use the rib at the waist (as on the back) or garter stitch to fit with the lapels. The photo is tantalising – little bits of the waist shaping are visible by the belt, but one side looks like garter stitch and the other like ribbing! After many times increasing and decreasing the magnification, I decided on ribbing, This will match up with the back, and again be good cover for the decrease in the stitch numbers above the waist.
The collar was another area where I spent a long time looking at different parts, trying to be certain of the stitch. On first sight it seemed to be stocking stitch, but this doesn’t fit with the rest of the jacket. Ribbing also seemed possible, and looked right in some places, but wrong in others. The edges definitely looked like garter stitch, and the line of the increases in stitch number on the front of the collar was clear. But the collar to the right of the photo looks like garter stitch, and to the left looks like ribbing! I finally decided to go with ribbing as it would stretch more if needed.
The other thing about the collar which is odd to modern eyes is that the increases inside the garter stitch edges are worked in garter stitch. This gives a wedge-shaped area of garter stitch on the front edges of the collar. These days these increases would be knitted in the stitch of the main collar, not the edging.
The final decisions involved the belt. First impressions were that it was garter stitch, worked from end to end. But closer inspection showed it could have been ribbing worked upwards. I went for garter stitch as that is stretchy, and if necessary, the length could be altered by taking back rows from the straight end.
Once the knitting was finished and the jacket was sewn up, there were just the fastenings to do. Pauline Loven had sourced some buttons which fitted very well. The button loops are done in blanket stitch over a couple of strands of yarn – just as my grandmother taught me before I went to school!!
I raided my great grandmother’s sewing box for a couple of snap fasteners of just the right size. There is one at the neck and one at the waist of the jacket, clearly visible if you know what you are looking for!
The jacket was finished!
Now it was time to take photos and send it off to Pauline to be used for a still photo shoot recreating one of the Crowther family photos of Grace with her parents. This one is of Grace with her mother, Ann. Ann’s jacket was knitted by Liz Rogers, and the photo is by John Bennet.
Since then it has also been used in a costume try-out video, made last weekend by Nick Loven and his team at WAG Screen who will be shooting the final film over the next few months.
To see more about the film and other knitting projects for it, go to the Orkney to Omaha blog here!